Background: My cottage, built in the 1930s, is about 1,200 square feet, 1,000 square feet of which have a 24- to 30-inch crawl space. (The balance is on concrete slabs.) The cottage is about 100 feet back from the lakeshore. The entire property is flat at about 24 inches above the normal high water level. The cottage interior floors are just a few inches above grade level, and the water table appears to be just under the dirt surface of the 24- to 30-inch crawl space: It is often damp but seldom wet.
The foundation is solid - river rock and mortar - and it extends about 24 inches above ground level, where a frame construction sits on the foundation.
The cottage is so damp that a forced-air heating system cannot be ducted from under the house, so a "reverse" system ducts heat overhead into the house.
We would like to add about 250 square feet of footprint on a slab and another 1,000 square feet on a second floor. The dampness and cold winter floors are limiting the decision to proceed.
What further recommendations do you have to reduce the dampness in a lakeside-cottage crawl space?
Via e-mail
A:........I am somewhat confused with what seems to be contradictory information. You mention that the first floor is only a few inches above grade level, but you also say that the river-rock foundation is 24 inches above ground level, and the frame part of the construction is set on top of the stone foundation. That would mean that the first floor is tied into the rock foundation, unless I'm misunderstanding something.
Since the foundation is 24 inches above grade, you can raise the grade against it, as I outlined in the column you are referring to. Follow through with the same recommendations for applying plastic on the crawl-space floor. Since it is only damp, I assume that the water table is not rising into your crawl space and that the dampness is simply caused by capillary attraction. Before you add a second story, you should make sure that the foundation can take the additional load. Often, seasonal cottages are not built with that added weight in mind. I hope this will take care of your problem.
Q: I have a 20-year-old roof with asphalt shingles. Overall the shingles are brittle, and a few have come off. I've sought quotes for having the roof replaced and am confused by what the various roofers are telling me. One is adamant that the old roof should be torn off, and another says that there is no need and they can apply the new roof over the existing. There is only one layer of shingles now with no curling or lifting. What do you recommend and why?
S. Burlington, Vt.
A:........Although according to the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association, putting a second layer of shingles is an accepted practice as a general rule, it is frowned upon in regions with heavy snows and ice. Installing another layer of shingles adds considerably to the weight on the rafters.
All components on the rafters - sheathing, felt underlayment and shingles - are what is known as dead load. Snow and ice, etc., are known as live load. Rafters have a certain load-bearing capacity that is a combination of dead and live load. As you increase the dead load, you decrease the rafters' live-load capacity.
To be safe, if you choose to have a second layer applied over the existing shingles, you would be wise to have a structural engineer calculate the rafters' load-bearing capacity.
Also to be considered is the proper application of the second layer. If it is applied as the first layer was, there will eventually be problems, as the shingles espouse the shape of the first layer. The shingles will look uneven, and ridges will show up that can collect water on a shallow pitch. The better roofers refuse to put a second layer over the first in areas of heavy snows and ice, and I would advise you to do the same.
Q:........I enjoy reading your column in the Free Press and have two questions. Is it necessary to use Rid-X or something similar in my septic system? Is there something I can put on a worn hardwood floor to improve the looks? I have used linseed oil in the past, but it has a strong odor, and I have heard that it shouldn't be used. I'd appreciate your advice.
Waterville, Vt.
A:........This question comes up whenever there is a flurry of TV ads from a purported septic contractor, claiming it is a lot cheaper to use the advertised product than to have your septic-leaching system replaced.
So here is my standard answer to similar questions: In all of my considerable research along with all the conferences I have attended, not a single report or person I have consulted recommends adding anything to a septic system. In fact, some studies have found that adding enzymes can be harmful. All the bacteria needed for proper performance of a septic system are found in the human intestinal tract. Save your money.
As to your floor, it depends how worn it is. If you haven't lost all the finish to the bare wood, you may want to look into Varathane Renewal No Sanding Floor Refinishing Kit. But be sure that you read the product labels for additional directions and precautions before buying. Varathane Renewal system claims that it will restore any dull or worn finishes and eliminate scuffmarks and scratches. It claims to be compatible with all types of wood floors, even laminate, is for indoor floor use only and comes in semigloss. It is applied with ordinary brooms, buckets, paint trays and clean rags. If the finish is worn and bare wood shows, you may have to have the floor sanded and refinished.
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source: dailyherald.com
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